Sea Kayaking Trip: Tobermory – Cove and the Otter Islands

Trip Rating

Description:

This is my favourite day trip in Ontario. However, it comes with some major logistical issues such as busy towns, crowded launch sites, and parking fees. But don’t worry; that’s why you’re here! I will explain everything after sharing my usual story ;).

Cove Island is the largest among the islands in the Fathom 5 archipelago. The southern side of the island features a ton of channels and inlets to explore and give you a sense of complete isolation. I am not sure how to explain it but even a bit of an eerie feeling when you explore the channels near Boat Passage 👻.

Finding a good route to explore the islands in this area requires some practice. The islands are much larger and farther apart than those on the east side of the bay. However, if you are willing to put in the effort, you will be rewarded with incredible and unique scenery, as well as rolling rodeo waves to sail across during your open crossings. The archipelago is home to dozens of shipwrecks, many of which you can catch a glimpse of while kayaking. Just because something is challenging, it doesn’t mean that it’s not worth doing. Unfortunately, many people have dismissed this area as being unsuitable for kayaking. Consider this my challenge to correct that opinion.

When I originally started to explore the area on maps and charts, the first thing that stuck out to me was “The Gut”. Never having been there, I could only daydream about what it actually looked like, but it seemed like a perfect challenge to go and explore. With the confidence I gained on the Franklin, Mink and McCoy trip, I decided to give it a go.

My first attempt at this route was a major disaster. It turns out that Boat Passage is nearly impassable, and we were met with knee-high mud, a portage over insanely jagged rocks, and some unhappy campers. Oh well, that’s the fun of exploring! But don’t worry, because I have a different route that works really well and always receives good reviews. Here it goes:

After launching at â‘  Little Tub Harbour, we handrail the south shore until we get to Coconut Joes (A great taco and kayak rental spot). From there we head to the â‘¡  Cheemaun dock. It’s important to make sure you don’t impede it in any way, so be very aware. Once you cross the big brown dock, you get a view of the beautiful vista of the archipelago. The islands and the lighthouse are picturesque; you can’t help but stop and admire the views.

Fathom Five Archipeligo on a foggy day

We then make a short open crossing to reach Doctor Island at point â‘£. It’s a great place to take a break from the wind and grab a drink. After that, we’ll continue our journey. My next favourite stop is Russell Cove at point ⑤. Although it appears easy to locate on the chart, it can be challenging to spot on the water. Russell Cove is a long and narrow channel with shallow waters. It’s a great spot to catch a glimpse of the ferry in action, assuming you time it right. If you need a quick break, this is your first opportunity. Please note that landing on an island in the Marine Conservation Area is strictly prohibited.

As if this trip wasn’t exciting enough already, it gets better here. If you handrail the south side of the island, you can explore all of the rocks and inlets; there are also â‘¥ shipwrecks scattered all over the place. Some even stick out of the water. For obvious reasons, I am not going to geolocate them, but if you explore the area, you will find them :). Caution, the Russel Reef on the west side of the island can get extremely rough, be careful (why do you think there are so many shipwrecks).

Approaching Turning Island

The next step is the longest open crossing on our trip, from Russel to ⑦ Turning Island. It’s approximately 1M (~2km). It can be a wild ride if you get a SW wind, but if you are prepared, it can also be great fun. The scenery around Cove Island changes; you can’t see the town anymore, and very few kayakers make it out this far.

The channels that wind around the southwest side of Cove Island can be easy to get lost in. You want to take the one on the North West side of Peters Island. It can be easy to miss so be prepared to paddle around a few times to find it. Once you are on the right track, the island is limestone that has been pitted by the waves over the years, making interesting patterns. Amazingly, I don’t have a picture of it, but you will have to believe me. Once you get to the far side of the Island, you will enter Laronde Harbour. It’s usually empty, but occasionally, you’ll see some sailors gunkholing there.

One of the most fascinating features in the Great Lakes is ⑧ The Gut, a naturally occurring seiche. The water in the Bay fills up Laronde Harbour, creating a strong current that can be observed even on a mild day. Once the harbour is filled, the water overflows a bit, and the process reverses, causing the current to go the other way. This cycle repeats about every 15 minutes. The current is strongest in the spring when the water levels are high. The Gut is an incredibly fascinating spot to observe. I can’t recall a single person who wasn’t amazed by it during the dozens of visits I’ve made.

After a nice rest to watch The Gut, we continued on towards the ⑨ Otter Islands. Yet another stunning group of small islands with an actual otter colony living there. We have been through many times and spotted a lodge of otters scurrying past. They are so cute! As you approach the islands from the West, you can see some large, interesting rock formations. You can even paddle right inside of some of them. We like to call the biggest of them “The Parking Garage”.

As you round the Otters, you can see some of the coolest rock fomartions in the area. There are towering cliffs, coves and this amazing ⑪ hole in the wall. You can also get an amazing view of Echo, F.owerpot and Bears Rump island from this vantage. From here its time to head home. Our usual route is back to point 4, then 3 – 2 -1.

Launch Spot Options:

Parking can be a challenge if you don’t know where to go. Your best bet is to park in a green area and walk to the launch after dropping off your gear.

Option 1: The boat ramp

This is really the only option. It costs $5 per kayak and it is on top of the parking fee. There is a dock hand that has a debit machine.

Apres Options

1. Tacomory

This place has really good options for tacos. The vegan bowl is my personal favourite.

2. Las Chulas

More authentic Mexican food and they have beer. I love the veggie burrito sooooo much.

3. Shipwreck Lee’s

They have a great patio and my favourite fish and chips place in town. The ring game is a ton of fun too.


If you are interested in supporting Kayak Ontario, please do so by attending our kayaking lessons (clinics, classes and events). To find more information, please visit our shop by clicking here

This trip would require a minimum of level 2 or higher skills, depending on the conditions.


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